Monday, May 06, 2013

A most astounding new friend --- the man who built the Ho Chi Minh Trail

His name is Nguyen Dan. He's 89 years old and he's blind. In 1941 he fought the Japanese when they invaded Vietnam. When the Japanese surrendered, the French returned and he fought them. When the United States stuck its head into Vietnam affairs, Dan fought them as well. In 1966, he was in charge of a project that many military historians believe made what was then called North Vietnam impossible to defeat --- he was in charge of building what would come to be known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Despite the fact that the Laos government had signed the The International Agreement on the Neutrality of Laos and promised to allow no foreign armies to use its land in the Vietnam conflict, Dan says the Laos government gave a wink and a nod to North Vietnam. Because Vietnam had helped Laos in it's fight against France, Laos agreed to look the other way and allow Dan's Engineer Regiment to build the now famous, hidden highway through the mountainous jungles of eastern Laos. Even though the U.S. dropped more bombs on that part of Laos than they had dropped on Europe in World War II, nothing could stop the North Vietnamese from sending hundreds of thousands of soldiers through Laos and Cambodia and into South Vietnam. Dan described for us how U.S. aircraft poured Agent Orange over the trail. They were soaking wet in the deadly goo. Then the rains came, he said, and washed the Agent Orange into the streams --- streams they used for bathing, cooking and even drinking. It was the Agent Orange, the doctors told him, that robbed him of his vision.
He welcomed us into his home. We met his childhood bride --- the woman who also helped him build the trail. He told us that he holds no animosity toward the United States. He believes in peace. He asked me to tell the American people that we should all live in peace. He told us that we are all residents of the earth and that we are one. He called me his brother. He shook my hand a dozen times and welcomed me in his Hanoi home whenever I wanted to visit. I hope I can visit him again. After all, he's family. We're all family.
Nguyen Dan built the Ho Chi Minh Trail.               -- Pierre Beauregard Photo


His name is Nguyen Dan (pronounced Wen Zan). He's 89 years old and he's blind. In 1941 he fought the Japanese when they invaded Vietnam. When the Japanese surrendered, the French returned and he fought them. When the United States stuck its head into Vietnam affairs, Dan fought them as well. In 1966, he was in charge of a project that many military historians believe made what was then called North Vietnam impossible to defeat --- he was in charge of building what would come to be known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Despite the fact that the Laos government had signed the 1962 Geneva Accords, the International Agreement on the Neutrality of Laos and promised not to allow foreign armies to use its land, Dan says the Laos government gave a wink and a nod to North Vietnam. 

Because Vietnam had helped Laos in it's fight against France, Laos agreed to look the other way and allow Dan's Engineer Regiment to build the now famous, hidden highway through the mountainous jungles of eastern Laos. Even though the U.S. dropped more bombs on that part of Laos than they had dropped on Europe in World War II, nothing could stop the North Vietnamese from sending hundreds of thousands of soldiers, trucks, tanks, guns and munitions through Laos and Cambodia and into South Vietnam. Dan described for us how U.S. aircraft poured Agent Orange over the trail. They were soaking wet in the deadly goo. Then the rains came, he said, and washed the Agent Orange into the streams --- streams they used for bathing, cooking and even drinking.

It was the Agent Orange, the doctors told him, that robbed him of his vision.

He welcomed us into his home. We met his childhood bride --- the woman who also helped him build the trail. He told us that he holds no animosity toward the United States. He believes in peace. He asked me to tell the American people that we should all live in peace. He told us that we are all residents of the earth and that we are one. He called me his brother. He shook my hand a dozen times and welcomed me in his Hanoi home whenever I wanted to visit. I hope I can visit him again. After all, he's family. We're all family.

Sunday, May 05, 2013

Dispatches from Vietnam and Laos -- The End of the Runway

I've been posting a lot of stuff on facebook and have neglected the people to whom I promised I would send updates and photographs. We're so busy here in Vietnam that I'm always too tired to compose posts to the blog. So I'm testing to see if I can paste the facebook postings. Will people who are not subscribers to facebook be able to go to the links? Please e t me know if it works.

This first set of posts is about the journey I've dreamed of taking --- I've dreamed of it for the past 45 years. But first, I'm giving you a link to a short film I shot of the Soc Trang Army Airfield in 1968. If you were to stop the film at about eight seconds into it, you'll see the place I would end up at all these years later.


 Here are the related facebook posts in the order that I posted them. Please let me know if I should include the people's comments after each post. I plan to send more dispatches --- each with its own theme. Feedback, please.
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1Like · ·
  • Linda Chancler As the foodie that I am, this day has surely gone on too long without a meal, please tell us about the food.
  • Linda Chancler Holding breath about what happens next, a wifi signal that gives you gps coordinates?
  • William Prather Great picture for the story. Those expressions on their faces are worth 1000 words. Odd outfit on the girl, looks like a shirt with a bib on top of it - probably a sloppy eater.
  • Susan Roberts Prolly need to smoke some ganga and chill Don Ray. Next thang ya know, that airport will appear like a mirage in the desert. Lovin' the travelogue.
  • William Prather Don, you have some strange friends. Somehow I doubt she's kidding.
  • Don Ray You're talking about Susan? I don't understand what she's talking about. I don't smoke anything. But probably everyone else knows. Hoa was wearing the traditional Vietnamese outfit. I'm not sure if it's an apron as well.
  • William Prather That picture belongs on the cover of your book
  • Dave Williamson Susan was talking about smoking pot! Not sayin I know anything about that, But the big boys in the Barracks said it was fun!
  • Don Ray Hey, we're in Laos now and I'd hate to have the authorities grab my computer and see all of this talk about illegal activities. Like, chill, man? You got my groove? Right arm!
  • Jim Comer La-os! Laaaaaaaay-os! DAYLIGHT COME AND ME WANNA GO HOME!
  • Don Ray Jim, you slipped up here a little bit. You're thinking Harry Belafante. In Laos, it's more likely to be Hairy Elephant Day.
  • Marshall Thompson Interesting trip Don! Be well over there.
  • Don Ray Thanks, Marshall!!!
  • Jim Comer Actually, I was making fun of people, most of whom speak English, who think that Laos has two syllables.
  • Don Ray Diphthong song.
  • Michael Torres Enjoying your adventure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    April 30 at 2:21pm · Unlike · 1



    1. 3Like · ·

      • Laura Rae Hulka Beautifully expressed, Don, very evocative!
      • Elaine Bro Elliott How blessed, could one man be????? To have the opportunity to re-live the loss you felt and to finally, move forward!!! This creative passion- a life long possession that has survived a horrendous war, none of will forget!! You have a unique ability to make friends, the best a man could ask for in his lifetime!!!!!!!!! I can't wait to see it all come together! Edge of my seat, Don Ray!!
      • Marshall Thompson OMG...... speechless.
      • Diane McWilliams Powerful. I am glad you found that peaceful ride back, and were able to revisit. My brother was in VietNam that year, so I am following your journey encased in my own memories as his sister. Travel well...
      • JoAnne Clark Great, So cleansing to the heart and yr mind. Keep up the good work.
      • Dave Williamson I repeat what I posted on the last one!I surely hope it helps! I'm so glad you were stubborn that time! What a shame had you missed it!
      • Perdita Brown What a powerful story!
      • Dawn RT DeBois I'm with Marshall. I'm speechless.